As the temperatures start rising, it becomes more and more complicated for Ms Incognita to decide what to wear throughout a work day. Jacket, top, and pants? Fine in the office, but too warm in the car or when walking around the city between appointments. And far too buttoned up if you’re meeting friends or attending a casual summer work event at the end of the day. Sure, you could take the jacket off, but somehow that always ends up looking like half an outfit—not the altogether polished look we expect of senior level execs.
Once Ms Incognita moved from the NYC area to a warm weather climate, however, she found a population of executive women who had mastered the art of summer workplace dressing. And one of the most versatile pieces in their wardrobes is the classic sheath dress. Worn with a jacket or a cardigan, a sheath looks professional and keeps you warm in air-conditioned offices and restaurants. And worn on its own, a sheath can keep you cool and stylish in both casual and formal settings, depending on its material and your accessories.
Here are a few thoughts on how to pull off the look, along with some recommendations as to where to find good sheath options right now.
Cut
The classic sheath shape—sleeveless and somewhat fitted to the body, but neither too tight nor too loose—is flattering to quite a few figures. If yours isn’t one of them, however, some of the following variations might work.
Arms in need of toning? Well, you know from “The Great Jacket Debate” post that Ms Incognita generally recommends keeping your jacket on in the office anyway! However, when you’re not wearing a jacket, try a sheath with short or three-quarter sleeves. Sheaths also come with full sleeves, but can look a little dowdy in this version unless the overall cut of the dress is exquisite. Consider having your tailor shorten full length sleeves to three-quarters to make your dress much more versatile.
Somewhat pear-shaped? Look for a sheath that flares out slightly below the waist and is not too tightly fitted on top.
More of an apple? Look for a sheath with a raised waist line (somewhere between a empire and your true waist) and a straight (not fitted) skirt. This cut is also good for pear shapes. Be wary of a true empire line. It can often exacerbate the very figure challenge you’re trying to minimize, and even when it doesn’t, it’s a look that’s more appropriate outside a corporate office.
Color
Every professional woman should have a black or dark-colored (navy, charcoal, etc) sheath dress. You can dress it up or down endlessly so that it works in both formal and casual settings, and it will probably take you more places than any other single item in your wardrobe.
Beyond that, sheath dresses come in all sorts of solid colors and prints. Ms Incognita tends to favor solids for the versatility factor. It’s much easier to pair various patterned jackets, cardigans, and/or accessories with a solid color (and have multiple outfits from the same dress) than to try that with a patterned sheath. But if you’re fashion savvy and up for that challenge, I salute you!
Fabric
Sheaths come in a variety of appropriate fabrics—silks, crepes, knits, boucles, cottons, and even denim for casual settings—giving you options that suit your climate, office setting, and figure type. Many of the best will contain some small percentage of elastene for give and resiliency.
Ms Incognita can think of only two cautions in the fabric department. First, if the fabric is lightweight, lining can be an advantage, not only to avoid the see-through effect but to limit wrinkling if you’re in and out of chairs, cars and planes during the day. And think twice about linen sheaths. They look beautiful and polished on the hanger but often wrinkled and weary after a few hours. A linen blend jacket can hold up during the day if handled well, but linen dresses, pants and skirts? Only if you avoid sitting down!
What’s available right now
While classics such as the sheath dress are available each year, some years are better than others in offering a wide variety of cut, colors, and fabrics. Unfortunately, one of those times was last year, not this.
Current offerings appear to be more limited, and unfortunately this seems especially true for color and cut at the lower price points. However, the classic black sheath is available in all price ranges, and other options also exist if you look hard enough. Also, if you want to build your sheath wardrobe, be patient and have a plan of action for years in which the sheath is especially popular. Ms Incognita scooped up several in different colors, fabrics and styles last year, all at very good prices. Seemed a little excessive at the time, but now that pickings are slim, she’s very glad she took the plunge.
Here’s a sampling of what’s available online right now…….
Saks (www.saksfifthavenue.com)
Not too much available at the lower price points, but some expensive options that may be worth the investment given the style and workmanship.
Akris Punto: A fashion forward brown zip-front sheath ($795) that would look fantastic under a light-weight tweed jacket. Available for preorder in limited sizing.
Armani Collezione: A windowpane light wool flannel sheath ($1,165). A classic and timeless look, available for preorder.
Ralph Lauren Black Label: A gray mélange cap-sleeved sheath with leopard belt ($1,098). Take a look—very professional and yet distinctive. Also available for preorder.
St. John: A sleeveless black sheath in a black textured wool ($795). The basic go-to style and St. John always travels well.
Weekend Max Mara: A lined cotton red sheath at a decent price from a good label ($260).
Nordstrom (www.nordstrom.com)
Tahari has some bargains. There’s a black crepe sheath with a bolero jacket for $188 (both could pair with other items in your wardrobe for multiple outfits), and a royal blue cotton sheath with bow detailing for $118.
Lafayette 148 (www.lafayette148.com)
Lafayette is always a good source for basics in a variety of colors and sizes, including petites. This year they offer a belted jodhpur cloth (cotton) stretch sheath in a variety of colors as well as a classic black stretch wool sheath (lined) for $398. Also take a look at their boucle confection wing collar jacket in a three-quarter sleeve. It comes in a variety of bright colors, some on sale. Might give a great pop of color to a black sheath.
Ann Taylor (www.anntaylor.com)
Could well be the mother lode this year for inexpensive sleeveless sheath dresses in a variety of colors, prints, and fabrics, all under $175. In recent years, the quality of fabric and workmanship seems to have declined at Ann Taylor. However, management has declared they are upgrading, so you may find some office appropriate versions of the sheath here.
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